Clutches for Less

When you shut your eyelids and envision a pearl necklace, what do you see? Chances are, it is a perfectly matched strand of round, lustrous pearls- and if so, the image that comes to mind is the famous Akoya pearl! Ever since Mikimoto revolutionized the glamorous world of jewelry by commercializing the first cultured Akoya pearls, this lovely and luminous gem has gained attention and won the hearts of all cultures around the world.

The cultured pearl was born out of Japan during the 1900’s as the result of many years of conducting trials and tests by three Japanese men: Nishikawa Mikimoto, Tatsuhei Mise and Tokishi Nishikawa. Experimenting independently on various nucleation methods with the Pinctada martensii oyster (the indigenous saltwater oyster that produces Akoya pearls) the researchers each discovered the surgical nucleation techniques that will force the oyster to create a pearl- this is the same technique used now by nucleation technicians worldwide, known as the Nise-Mishekawa method. However, Mikimoto was the person who intuitively used his business proess to gain worldwide attention and has made a worldwide brand based off of his name.

For decades the Japanese maintained a monopoly on the Akoya pearl trade, guarding their cultivation and processing techniques jealously. They were- and are- acknowledged as the masters of their trade; to this day the Japanese Akoya pearl is considered the finest in the world. Harvest periods (the amount of time that the oyster was allowed to secrete nacre over the nucleus) were approximately 3-5 years per pearl, ensuring thick, lustrous nacre layers that gave the pearls their renowned glow and shine. It also made them much more durable and able to resist wear on the nacre brought about by exposure to cosmetics, sweat, acids and perfumes.

However, as with any monopoly, the hey-day would not last forever. In order to satisfy a continually mounting demand for their beautiful pearls- which had quickly staked their place as a staple of every woman’s wardrobe throughout the 1940’s and 50’s- the Japanese began cutting their growth times in order to accommodate the burgeoning market’s requirements, and quality began to suffer. Other factors such as water pollution and farmed oyster stocks that have become vulnerable to disease through decreased genetic diversity also play a large part in the weakening of the Japanese grip on the international Akoya pearl market. With an eye toward the future, the Japanese have begun to culture larger pearls measuring over 8.0mm almost exclusively, focusing their efforts on maintaining their position as a leader, and the best source for gem-quality cultured pearls today.

China began culturing Akoya pearls as well starting in the 1960’s, although quality was acknowledged to be quite inferior to that of their Japanese neighbors. However, the Chinese pearl farmers learned what it took to become successful in an industry that was considered to be unshakeable. Concentrating their efforts on perfecting the smaller pearl sizes of 4.0mm to 8.0mm- as they have not yet mastered culturing the larger sizes that Japan is renowned for.  Utilizing their vastly cheaper production costs than that of Japan, and adopting a wiser, more long-term approach in terms of pearl quality and reputation, China has found their way to the top in the pearling world.

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