How to Shop for Pearls - The AAA to Z of it
Maybe it is their romantic aura, or their subtle beauty, but you have decided to buy a beautiful piece of pearl jewelry to add to your collection. Before running out to your favorite jeweler and snatching up the first thing you see, get informed about the investment you are about to make. Just like any other gemstone, there are quite a few things to know about pearls that can help you not only get the best deal, but the right pearl for you.
First, let me start by saying that there is no official grading system industry wide for pearls. There are however, 2 different systems that reputable pearl dealers hold themselves to. The first system is the AAA-A system which allows jewelers to grade their pearls. In this system, a grade of AAA means the pearl is of the highest quality. The pearl should be nearly flawless and have a very high luster. If a pearl has an AA grade it should have a high luster, but might have slight defects. An A-grade is the lowest grading for a pearl. This type of pearl will most likely have a lot of flaws and be lacking luster.
The second widely accepted system is the A-D system, also known as the Tahitian system. This is the system often used to grade Tahitian or South Sea pearls in overseas markets. In this system, a grade of A means the pearl is of the highest quality with high luster and is virtually flawless. The grading goes down from there, with a B pearl having a high to medium luster and a few defects. A C-graded pearl will probably have over 50% defects on the surface, and will possess only a medium luster. Any pearl given a grade below D is not considered usable for jewelry.
Because these two grading systems are not industry-wide, it is important that you feel as though you can trust your jeweler. Make sure you ask for the pearl grading in writing - any reputable dealer should readily provide this. This way, you have the pearl quality in words as opposed to simply the grade they felt was appropriate. Another thing to look for when grading apearl is its nacre, or its surface thickness. The thicker the nacre, the more durable the pearl will be over time. A good, thick nacre begins at about 0.5mm so keep this in mind and use it as a guide when choosing pearls.
It's important to examine the pearl's surface carefully before you purchase. A high-quality pearl will have a shiny, bright apperaance. A high-quality pearl should be lusturous enough for you to see your reflection in it. Lower quality pearls have a more milky or chalky appearance. Also, check the surface of the pearl to make sure it is smooth and free of discoloration or other defects. The perfect pearl should be round, smooth and shiny.
The next thing to consider is the pearl's color. This is an area where personal taste should overtake how valuable the pearl is. There are colors of pearls that are rarer than others in nature but this should not be the determining factor. When purchasing pearls, color should be based on personal taste and what looks best on your skin tone. With that being said, pearls range in color from white to black with every color in-between. So, it should be easy to find a high-quality pearl in just the right color to suit your taste.
Another thing to be aware of when shopping for pearls is size and how that affects cost. Of course, the larger the pearl the more expensive it will be, depending on the other factors as well. Pearls are measured in millimeters and will depend on the type of pearl. Akoya pearls are often the smallest and can range from approximately 6mm to 8mm. Tahitian, South Sea and freshwater pearls tend to be a bit larger than the Akoya pearls. The average pearl sold today is about 7mm. There are also "seed pearls" which are tiny (less than 1mm, at times) that you can find at jewelry stores around the world.
So, before heading out to the stores do some research and be informed about the type of pearl you want to bring home with you. As a knowledgeable consumer, you will be able to get more for your money. Ultimately you will feel better about your purchase, you will have made a better investment, and you'll have chosen a piece of jewelry that you will treasure for years to come.